September 26, 2014—Arrividerci Greve in Chianti!

It has been three weeks since we have posted; and we have been very busy. The biggest event of the year in Greve is the Chianti Wine Festival. This year was the 44th year for the festival. The triangular shaped main Piazza Matteotti in Greve is closed to car traffic and booths are set up on the Piazza for approximately 50 Wineries/Vineyards that produce Chianti wine in the vicinity of Greve. You buy a wine glass for $26 and it entitles you to taste the wines of 7 Wineries/Vineyards. The festival starts on Thursday and runs until Sunday. This year the opening days were marred by rain.But, on Sunday evening there was a record crowd on hand.We went to the festival on Friday to kind of check it out and had a good time!

Then, on Saturday, Rita had friends from Ft. Wayne, Louise, Kevin, Bonnie and David stopped by Greve on a drive through Chianti. They stayed with us at the villa for 4 days and we had a nice visit and caught up on all the news from back home.

Kevin and Louise
Kevin and Louise
Louise, Norm, Rita, Bonnie and Dave, (Kevin took pic)
Louise, Norm, Kevin, Bonnie and Dave, (Rita took pic)
Dave, Bonnie, Louise, Norm and Rita
Dave, Bonnie, Louise, Norm and Rita

The Sacred Belt of the Virgin Mary

On September the 8th, Norm and I were privileged to be able to witness the display of one of the most sacred relics in the Catholic tradition, the “Sacred Belt” (Sacra Cintola) of the Virgin Mary in Prato, Italy. The display or “ostensione” takes place only five times a year, on Christmas, Easter, May 1st, August 15th (The Assumption of the Virgin Mary), and September 8th (Nativity of the Virgin Mary). This last date is the most important of the displays, with large crowds gathering in conjunction with further festivities that lasts three days. The festivities for this particular evening started with a procession beginning at 8:00PM, and the display of the belt to follow at 10:30 PM. We thought, ok, we could hang out that long and see what this was all about.

Here’s a little history of the belt: (taken from our brochure)

The Sacred Belt of the Prato Cathedral is a thin strip of green fabric with gold brocades and a green tassel and band at the ends. As told in an ancient oriental apocryphal text after the Blessed Virgin’s death St. Thomas was carried by angels to the Mount of Olives; there he contemplated the Virgin while she was taken up into the Heaven, and received the gift of the belt in proof of the event. According to Prato medieval tradition the sacred belt was then entrusted to a priest and preserved by his descendants. After the first crusade, a Prato pilgrim of modest origins called Michele (Michael), fell in love with Maria, the daughter of an oriental priest and married her in secret, against her father’s wish and received as dowry the “Sacred Cincture” in a small basket made of rushes. After returning to Prato around 1141, Michele spoke to no one about the holy relic and only on his death bed (1172), he donated it to the provost of the nearby church of St. Stephen (The Duomo is the Cathedral of St. Stephen). The sacred Belt furthermore was considered the most valuable treasure of the entire city, so much so that its public display was established by the bylaws of Commune, which still today has in custody a set of the keys required to take it out of the altar.

sacred belt

The belt of green camel hair material is displayed inside a gold and glass reliquary container from the Donatello pulpit on the exterior of the Cathedral during a special mass, the rest of which takes place inside the Duomo. The Bishop holds it up for public view in three directions, three times. The belt has both civic and religious importance to the commune of Prato, therefore the ceremony requires the participation of two authorities, and their numerous representatives; one civic (the Mayor) and one religious (the Bishop). While the religious authorities perform a mass inside the Duomo, there is a civic procession (Parade, as we Americans call it) with drummers, many, many, flag throwers, and trumpets that walk throughout the city to the Duomo. Once they arrive in front of the Duomo, they perform their specialty.

Here are a few pictures of what they do.

The first of the procession is arriving right behind this police motorcycle escort!
The first of the procession is arriving right behind this police motorcycle escort!
Lovely costumes worn by everyone!
Lovely costumes worn by everyone!
Another area represented!
Another area represented!
This is just ONE of the many performances of "flag throwers"! These are classical throwers!
This is just ONE of the many performances of “flag throwers”! These are classical throwers!

September 7, 2014… Almost Feels like Home!!

We have completed our fifth week in Greti/Greve/Chianti/Italy. It has started to feel like home. We are getting used to the store hours and restaurants. We feel comfortable with the villa, pool, and tennis court. We have not met any Italians, but that is the result of our language inadequacies. The Italians we come in daily contact with our friendly and interested in us and are a pleasure to deal with. There are minor frustrations still, but even those are becoming less. For example, we needed gas the other day to go on a road trip and learned that the gas stations, like other shops, also close between 2 and 4 PM. It is also hard to get used to no grocery shopping on Sundays or Wednesday afternoons. But, we have adjusted.

Next, are a few of our “Impressions on Italy and the Italians.” First, almost every restaurant gives you something free. It may be a glass of Prosecco, as an aperitif to start the meal, or a lemoncello to complete the meal, or it might be a small appetizer as you start your meal or some chocolate or other type of small dessert at the end of your meal. It is a pleasant gesture that we would like to see more of in the U.S. restaurants. Second, Rita is not used to seeing rabbit on the menus and in the grocery store. The rabbits stare back at you with big bulging eyes in the meat case at the grocery store. It is a little unnerving.

IMG_2404

Third, the Italians, like the French, always serve the shell on their lobster, mussels, oysters, shrimp and langoustine. They do this in order to show the customer that the shellfish is fresh. But, it is pretty darn hard to cut those shells off. Usually, the restaurant is NOT willing to remove the shells in the kitchen. So, we have eaten very little shellfish. Fourth, the daily diet of the Italians seems more restricted than other countries we have visited. Dinner always starts with salami or ham, or fried zucchini flowers or some other appetizer, followed by a pasta, followed by meat, (very little chicken and no fish), and dessert. The Italians seem to pass on the cheese course that is so common in France. And… there is no such thing as a “Caesar salad” or garlic bread, or cheesy garlic bread or any garlic bread for that matter and last…. this is for all of you white sauce lovers… there is NO ALFREDO sauce in Italy… that is all American.

The pharmacies in Italy are wonderful. The Pharmacist is very highly regarded here, seems to be just as highly regarded as a doctor. Not only are drugs subsidized and therefore less expensive than in the U.S., but also, there are always two or three clerks in white jackets, referred to as Pharmacist/Doctors, willing to give you medical advice for free. And, they will sell you a prescription drug with out having to have a script, if you tell them what ails you and what you’ve used before.

The season in Greve is changing from summer to fall. The weather is slightly cooler, the nights are pleasant and most importantly the green, scrawny grapes we have been watching for five weeks have now turned a beautiful purple and the grapes are large, round and bountiful. The extra upper grapes have been cut away so that lower grapes can become larger. In fact, 6 kilos of grapes may be cut away to make the remaining 2 kilos of grapes better. This coming week, from the 11th to the 14th is the big 4-day wine festival in Greve. One of the biggest festivals held in Chianti. We are excited about attending the festival and tasting the Chianti wines. In addition to the red wine, we have found a few white wine grapes in Chianti.

IMG_2414
IMG_2419
IMG_2422
IMG_2428

We ate a great dinner at “il ristoro de lamole” in Lamole. It is on a mountaintop near Greve and is the Number 1 restaurant in Chianti, if not for its food, certainly for its view. You have to drive up the mountain with numerous hairpin turns on skinny-ass roads with NO guardrails to get to the restaurant. But, once there you can see for miles across the beautiful Chianti valley all the way to San Gimignano.   The presentations were as lovely as the food tasted.   We (meaning I) relied on GPS to get us there. That was a mistake. She (GPS is a she when it’s wrong!) took us to the wrong side of the mountain. To make up for loss time, I drove like a mad man, and not only did I make Rita sick to her stomach, she could barely unclench her white knuckled hands from hanging on to get out of the car, so we had to wait for her stomach to return to normal before she could eat. That was the first and only time I drove, and haven’t driven since!!! Rita drove home, to say the least.

IMG_2415

This week we took a 4-day road trip. This time we went south to Siena, by way of San Gimignano.

Badia a Passignano, a very pretty little town on the way to San Gimignano.
Badia a Passignano, a very pretty little town on the way to San Gimignano.
San Gimignano
San Gimignano